Queenstown and the road to Milford Sound
Four days of lakes, mountains and fiords, including the most famous drive in New Zealand.
Tomás Rivera
4 min read
Queenstown sits on the shore of a long, deep lake, ringed by mountains so sharp they look drawn on. It is famous as the adventure capital of the world, and yes, you can jump off things here. But the best of it, for me, is the drive: the roads that leave town in every direction and run through some of the most dramatic scenery on the planet.
Here is a four-day plan that includes the most famous road trip in New Zealand, to Milford Sound.
Best time: December–March · Days: 4 · Budget: High · Getting around: Hire car · Driving: 600 km
Day 1 — Around the lake
Take the gondola up Bob's Peak for the view over the lake and the Remarkables range. In the afternoon, drive the 45 minutes to Glenorchy along the lake. The road is narrow and winding, with a lookout at every bend and nothing but mountains at the end.
Day 2 — The road to Te Anau
Drive south and west to Te Anau, the gateway to Fiordland National Park. It is an easy three-hour drive through sheep country. In the evening, take the boat across the lake to the glowworm caves.
Day 3 — Milford Sound
Leave Te Anau early. The Milford Road runs 120 km through beech forest and past mirror lakes, then climbs through the Homer Tunnel and drops down towards the sea. Watch out for kea, the mountain parrots, in the car parks. They will eat your windscreen wipers if you let them.
In Fiordland, rain is good news. Every cliff becomes a waterfall.
Tomás Rivera
Take a cruise out to where the fiord meets the Tasman Sea, past Mitre Peak and waterfalls that fall straight into the water. If you can, take a kayak tour instead to see seals up close.
Day 4 — Back to Queenstown
Drive back to Queenstown and spend the afternoon on the lake, or brave the bungee jump at the Kawarau Bridge, the first commercial one in the world.
Where to stay and eat
Queenstown has every kind of place to sleep, from backpacker hostels to lakeside lodges, but it is expensive in summer and books out early. Te Anau is smaller, cheaper and closer to Milford Sound. In Queenstown, the famous burger place has a queue at every hour of the day and night; it moves fast and the burgers are huge. For something slower, drive to Arrowtown, an old gold-mining town twenty minutes away, for dinner in one of its small restaurants.
Extra day — Wanaka
Drive over the Crown Range, the highest paved road in New Zealand, to Wanaka, a smaller, calmer lake town. Walk up Roys Peak for one of the most famous views in the country, or take the easier Mount Iron track. The lone willow tree growing out of the lake is the most photographed tree in New Zealand.
What it cost
Prices per person, for two people sharing, at the time of our trip. Use them as a guide; they change every season.
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Motel, 4 nights (shared) | NZ$520 |
| Car hire and fuel (shared) | NZ$320 |
| Milford cruise | NZ$110 |
| Gondola | NZ$64 |
| Food | NZ$300 |
| Total, 4 days | about NZ$1,300 |
What I would do differently
I would drive the Milford Road in both directions on different days, stopping at the Mirror Lakes and the Chasm on the way back rather than rushing past them in the morning. I would also book the overnight cruise on Milford Sound, which lets you see the fiord at dawn, before the day boats arrive. And I would pack a warmer jacket; even in summer, the fiord can be very cold on deck.
Know before you go
- Fill your tank in Te Anau. There is no fuel on the Milford Road.
- The road can close in snow or heavy rain. Check the status before you leave.
- Sandflies, tiny biting insects, are everywhere in Fiordland. Bring repellent.
- New Zealanders drive on the left. Take your time on the narrow roads.
- Book Milford cruises ahead in summer.
